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History Vol.1

Urban Militarism, the story of the birth of 'Briefing'

Written by Jun Yamaguchi (Edited by Yohei Hamada)

War and fashion. Or battlefields and products.


There is an ironic and deep connection between two seemingly unrelated elements. It is easy to understand how many of the clothes or products that we commonly call classic or masterpieces are deeply related to war and battlefields. Examples include trench coats, field jackets, pilot sunglasses, military watches, and the aluminum alloy chair Emeco and the lightweight trunk Rimowa. The number increases even more if you include cases such as the Eames chair, which would not have been created without the research on molded plywood for medical splints and stretchers used in battlefields, and the Volkswagen Beetle, which was developed as a tool to control Hitler's public opinion.


Just as innovative weapons or equipment, functional military wear or military products for actual combat that do not waste even a single pocket sometimes determine the outcome of a battle and determine the lives of important soldiers. That is why, during wartime or the Cold War, excellent factories and talents are called in to plan and develop these clothing or products, and no expense is spared in planning and development. And as the ultimate tool, the material to win, the form to win, and the details to win are thoroughly pursued. There is no room for ambiguous elements such as the passion or playfulness of the creator to intervene. Uniforms or outdoor clothing or products may have similar aspects, but military wear or products that are born by thoroughly pursuing only the function and practicality as pure tools unrelated to the creativity or trends of the designer inevitably have one ultimate form and detail.

That is why it is said that while war takes many precious lives, it also brings many achievements from the perspective of clothing and product history. Whether you like conflict or not, the reason why many men are fascinated by military items such as military uniforms or guns or the word MIL SPEC is because they can see the ideal form of clothing or tools in them. Many creators are inspired by or try to quote military wear or products produced by war because their functional beauty has an irresistible magnetic force. And these achievements are currently being transformed into various forms and utilized in scenes of our peaceful and comfortable lives, such as vehicles, tools, and fashion.

In terms of fashion, items such as trench coats, M65 field jackets, chino pants, and 6-pocket pants are still being updated in the new field called 'Town Youth' by changing materials, patterns, and details.


In terms of bags, products using ballistic nylon developed for bulletproof vests or bags inspired by the MA-1 flight jacket have existed since the 1980s. These bags can clearly be said to be products inspired by the military. Although it can be said to be a brand located in the lineage of the planned brand “BRIEFING” of Celts Limited in 1998, it has succeeded by introducing thorough militarism into product manufacturing that differentiates it from the pioneers by taking advantage of the latecomer. What is unique about BRIEFING is that its planning and production are done in the United States, and from the beginning, it has commissioned manufacturing to a military bag factory that actually manufactures military bags or special bags supplied to the US military, police, hospitals, etc.


In addition, the briefing also uses textiles such as ballistic nylon (a strong 1050 denier ballistic woven with a special double basket wave that allows the fibers to resilient even when small holes are poked with an ice pick, etc.) and Cordura nylon from DuPont (now a registered trademark of Invista) which is known as a military material and has seven times the durability of nylon, and also uses red lines placed on nylon tape or joint tape that have reinforcement and visibility that comply with military specifications, and metal parts with plastic coating that prevents reflection so that the enemy does not identify the location, etc., to thoroughly enforce authenticity.

In other words, although it is a bag for town use and business use, the appeal of Briefing lies in the fact that it does not create that 'feel' through material or design, but rather uses textiles, parts, and technology that meet or are equivalent to military specifications by having its production base in a real military factory.


The first time I saw Brief was probably in 2002. I first learned about the name of Celts Limited, which produces Brief, in the late 1990s, when I was impressed by the quality of canvas bags and garment cases made for novelties with the original name of a select shop, and asked the buyer who the OEM was. And the first time I visited an exhibition hosted by Celts Limited, which actually handled these bags and was still a strong supporter of select shops and specialty stores, was in 2002. There is a reason why I, who is not a very good memory person, clearly remember it as 2002.


I was surprised that the briefing was displayed carefully in a place that was not easily visible, at a time when there were only about 10 products, while the pre-break "Daniel & Bob" imported by Seltz Limited and the original brands "Laps" and "Ragtime" were displayed side by side.


At first glance, without even receiving an explanation, I had a professional feeling that "this will definitely be a success." The reason was simple. Compared to Daniel & Bob, which seemed like it would take time to be recognized because of its target audience or price range, Brief had a wide target, an easy-to-understand appearance, and a reasonable price. At the time, military wear symbolized by camouflage was mainly a trend within the industry, but it was beginning to be accepted in the general market, and modernly modified or redesigned military products were gradually emerging to replace vintage or authentic military wear and products.


Above all, compared to other brands in the domestic market that could be competitors, the military-style bags, the briefing stood out in terms of authenticity and atmosphere. However, the only regret was that this project should have had various colors such as olive drab, khaki, or camouflage, but the collection was mainly black. However, the reason why the exhibition space was not conspicuous and why black was the main color was soon understood when President Yuji Nakagawa of Celts Limited explained it to me as I stood in admiration in front of the briefing corner.


The reason it was displayed in an inconspicuous place was because the briefing, which had just started, had virtually stopped. The reason was the 9/11 terrorist attacks. At that time, the U.S. military factories that were in charge of producing the briefing were ordered to switch all production to military production after the Bush administration began invading Afghanistan, so most of the production lines were shut down, and small-scale civilian work like the briefing was pushed back, eventually making production impossible.


No matter how much Seltz Limited called or emailed, the factory would only reply, “It’s impossible.” There was a time when they didn’t respond to emails at all. Nevertheless, Seltz Limited exhibited at exhibitions and received orders for buyers who wanted briefings, but it was a special situation where they couldn’t promise when they would be able to deliver after production resumed. In the end, production resumed in 2003, but that left buyers and the press with a strong impression that briefings were truly manufactured in a U.S. military factory.