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History Vol.2

Urban Militarism, the story of the birth of 'Briefing'

Written by Jun Yamaguchi (Edited by Yohei Hamada)

There is a hidden story as to why black became the main color. Before hearing the story, I had hastily assumed that it was because Tumina and Ralph Lauren, who had unified the military textile ballistic nylon and parts into a single black color with the concept of 'black on black' and made it known to the world as a new standard for travel bags and business bags, were fascinated by 'Polo Luggage' and had Andiamo make it as an OEM in black, and that they were all successful in black. However, the story was much simpler.


Unlike the black ballistic nylon and tape that Military Factory had in stock, in order to procure materials in the desired khaki or camouflage pattern, Selts Limited alone had to guarantee a considerable number of meters of dyeing lots to the textile factory, and with the number of samples and trading stores at the time, the order volume would have been so large that it would have taken years to process. Selts Limited had no choice but to give up on khaki.


So, how on earth did Briefing come to be? While writing this manuscript, I asked the designer Arata Sosuzume, who was in charge of Briefing’s design from the beginning, about the story behind its birth, and I received an unexpected answer. Naturally, I expected to hear about the concept of militarism first, and the story of the hardships of finding a military supply bag factory, but it turns out that the concept of militarism was born from a meeting with Military Factory, which was an early partner factory.


"The initial opportunity was LABS, which Seltz Limited started in 1997. At the time, Nakagawa had a dream of creating an original brand in a factory with the capabilities of Made in the USA, which he had admired. However, he did not have any connections or acquaintances who were related. This was a time when the US itself had already started to move its production bases overseas, so to be honest, we were planning without knowing if there would be a factory that would take on a small quantity of work for a small company in Japan, and not even a simple customization level, but an original project. As a result, Seltz Limited's planning and design led to the realization of LABS, the first original label that carried out material procurement and sewing in a US factory. The success of LABS, which made products with the "Made in the USA" name, became the opportunity for Briefing to be born."

President Nakagawa and his team were continuing their plans to create a new Made in USA brand following the explosive hit Raps in the late 90s.


"If we're going to make it in the U.S., it's only meaningful if we do it with a factory that has unique American characteristics. If we made outdoor into town use with Labs, what's next? I was thinking, "Can't we make luggage with designs that can be used by civilians at a military bag factory?" Then, I met Military Factory through an introduction from someone. At the time, it was the largest company in military bags and the most trusted factory by the government. I showed them a sample and said that this was the place where we could make the military design luggage we'd imagined in the U.S., and that's how we started a deal."


It was a military factory that I thought I had met by luck, but when I actually tried to start full-scale production, the response from the military factory was strangely slow or bad. To be honest, to the military factory that mainly deals with large-scale transactions with the military or government agencies in the US, Seltz Limited, which I had never heard of and had no track record with, was just a small business partner. In other words, Seltz Limited was being ignored.

No matter how many times I tried, I felt like I was hitting a wall. It seemed like no matter how much time passed, it wouldn’t be resolved. If words and sincerity didn’t work, there was no choice but to show force. After three rounds of negotiations, President Nakagawa realized that the conversation wouldn’t progress and decided to buy materials and parts that Military Factory had in stock and make product samples in Japan.


The fact that Celts Limited, which originally pursued functionality and practicality as a tool rather than fashion in its bags, and Military Factory, which pursued solidity in the battlefield, were in good harmony helped here. By referring to several military bags handled by Military Factory, we completed the first sample with our own interpretation of the handling of materials, the use of accessories, and even the meaning of the red line. The bag was a modern arrangement of a tote bag that was not found in true military bags. The high level of perfection that made the bag into a perfect town youth bag by making full use of its uniqueness and Military Factory’s specialty drastically changed the attitude of Military Factory, which had not responded at all in the planning or design drawings. That wasn’t all. We also proposed significant concessions on the strict quantities and conditions that had been initially presented. It was a monumental moment when Military Factory recognized Celts Limited as an important business partner.


There was another reason behind the progress of the partnership between Military Factory and Seltz Limited. At the time, John Carver, the owner of Military Factory, said, "We are operating as a military company, but if possible, we want to achieve a balance of 50% government and 50% private sector. We want to create things that help people, not tools that harm people, and we want to contribute the technology we have accumulated as a military company to the private sector." This idea also helped to give birth to Briefing.


And in 1998, Briefing started with four types: briefcase, waist bag, tote bag, and pouch. It was the birth of Briefing, a bag brand made in the USA that advocated Japanese planning militarism - more precisely, militarism based on town youth, so it might be called urban militarism or town militarism. Although it was initially halted due to the 9/11 incident, production resumed after that and progressed almost smoothly. Excluding about two years of virtual hiatus, the collection that started with four types in 13 years has rapidly increased to 190 types. In addition to the main red line, the collection is also proposed by series such as 'Black Line', 'Flight Light', 'Fusion', and 'Skin' that are specialized for business needs and aim for luxury, and recently, items with high hobby value such as golf bags and fishing rod bags have also been added.


Another attraction of Briefing is that it has a variety of exclusive products, such as store-only models and media-only models, which are symbols of popularity. Over the past three years, it has also been actively pursuing collaborations with other brands and industries, such as Rimoa, Biohazard, and New Balance.

Yes, I forgot an interesting story. The militarism that Briefing advocates does not mean a simple image, but practicality with durability and sturdiness that can withstand intense use on the battlefield. However, it is said that there were actually complaints from beloved users in Japan that the bag was worn out or that the metal parts were broken. When it was sent to the factory in the US for repair, the person in charge was astonished and said, "I've never seen such repairs. How can it break like this when used roughly?" They looked into the cause, but it wasn't a defective part. In the end, they concluded that the commuting and working conditions of Japanese businessmen were so difficult that they surpassed the battlefield. They said that this problem has now disappeared after changing the specifications, so in a way, Briefing can be said to be a bag that has acquired sturdiness and durability that truly surpasses military specifications.